DIY Guide: How to Install LVP Flooring
Installing luxury vinyl plank flooring yourself can help you save on labor and take an active role in your home renovation. Plank’d’ Discount Flooring's rigid core flooring uses a floating installation method: the planks connect to one another rather than being nailed or glued to the subfloor.
The most important work happens before the first plank goes down. A properly prepared surface, the right expansion space, and carefully connected joints all help your installation succeed.
This guide walks through the manufacturer’s instructions for all LVP product lines offered by Plank’d Discount Flooring.
The installation requirements to know first
Keep these measurements handy while planning your project:
Requirement | Manufacturer’s written instruction |
Additional cushioning pad | Do not add it; the product has a pre-attached pad |
Concrete moisture barrier | Install 6mil plastic before laying the flooring |
Subfloor level tolerance | Within 3/16 inch over a 10-foot area |
Perimeter expansion space | At least 5/16 inch around walls and vertical objects |
End-joint stagger | At least 8 inches between adjacent rows |
First and last plank in each row | At least 8 inches long |
Final row width | At least 2 inches, excluding the tongue |
Expansion moldings | Required when the floor area exceeds 1,225 square feet and/or a length exceeds 35 feet in any direction |
Room temperature for installation | At least 65°F for 24 hours before, during, and after installation |
Ongoing indoor conditions | 55–90°F and 40–70% relative humidity |
Do not install cabinets on the planks or glue or nail this floating floor to the subfloor.
The product is intended for indoor use only.
Step 1 Gather your tools and flooring
You will need a utility knife, straight edge, tape measure, small rubber mallet, spacers, and an installation block. Note a pull bar may be needed for tight areas and the final row.
You will also need the tools and materials appropriate for removing trim, undercutting doorway moldings, preparing your subfloor, and reinstalling finishing trim. Use suitable eye protection and follow each tool’s safety instructions.
Store flooring cartons horizontally and protect their corners. Inspect the flooring in good light before and during installation. Set aside damaged or defective planks and contact Plank’d before installing them.
Step 2 Prepare the room
Maintain a room temperature of at least 65°F for the 24 hours before installation, throughout the work, and for 24 hours afterward.
Remove the existing quarter round, baseboard, or other base molding as needed. Undercut doorway moldings to the flooring’s thickness so the planks can slide beneath them without being trapped.
Clear the work area and plan how you will move furniture back in once the floor is finished. Do not assume that every product needs the same acclimation routine; follow the instructions for your specific flooring.
Step 3 Check and prepare the subfloor
The surface beneath your flooring must be dry, clean, smooth, level, free of existing adhesive residue, and free from movement or deflection. The manufacturer requires it to be level within 3/16 inch over a 10-foot area.
Check the surface before installation rather than expecting the flooring or its attached pad to hide uneven areas. Fill and level seams, cracks, depressions, grooves, and other irregularities with the latex-fortified cementitious patching compound specified by the guide.
After suitable preparation, sweep or vacuum the substrate to remove dust and debris. Keep the work area clean as you install so grit does not interfere with the locking joints.
Installing over wood
Double-construction wood floors with a minimum thickness of 1 inch and no spring deflection are required. The top plywood layer must be at least 1/4 inch thick and be underlayment grade.
If you are unsure whether your floor assembly meets those requirements, have it assessed before proceeding. A floor that moves or flexes needs attention before new planks are installed.
Installing over concrete
Concrete installations require 6mil plastic moisture barrier beneath the flooring. This is separate from the attached cushioning pad.
There are concrete moisture limits: no more than 3 pounds per 1,000 square feet over 24 hours using ASTM F1869 testing, or no more than 75% internal relative humidity using ASTM F2170 testing. These are slab tests, not readings from a room humidity meter.
Concrete must also meet the manufacturer’s construction, curing, and strength requirements, including a minimum compressive strength of 3,500 psi. If the slab’s condition or moisture compliance is uncertain, get qualified help before installing.
Installing over an existing floor
The manufacturer permits installation over most smooth, single-layer, hard-surface existing floors. Check for curled edges or seams and repair them. Where needed, use a quality cementitious embossing leveler to smooth and fill the surface.
This does not mean every existing floor is suitable. Confirm that the surface meets all substrate requirements.
Older resilient flooring and adhesive may contain asbestos or crystalline silica. The manufacturer warns against sanding, scraping, drilling, sawing, or otherwise mechanically disturbing these materials and creating dust. If the material is unknown, stop and have it assessed before removal or preparation.
Step 4 Plan the layout before cutting
Consider laying planks parallel to the room’s longest dimension. Measure the room for squareness and work out the width of the final row before you begin.
The last row must be at least 2 inches wide, excluding the tongue. If your layout would leave a narrower strip, reduce the first row’s width to make room for a wider final row.
Also plan for expansion moldings where the floor exceeds 1,225 square feet or 35 feet in any direction. Do not assume a long run through connected rooms can be installed continuously without them.
Step 5 Install the first row
Start on the left side of your starting wall and work toward the right. The plank’s tongue side faces the starting wall.
Place 5/16-inch spacers between the planks and the wall, including at the places where planks join. Maintain that expansion space around the room and all vertical objects.
Connect the first-row end joints by inserting the tongue into the previous plank’s groove at a low angle, then gradually lowering the plank into place. Make sure the planks align and the joint closes.
For the final plank in the row, measure the remaining space and subtract 5/16 inch for the expansion gap. Both the first and last plank must be at least 8 inches long. If the end piece would be shorter, adjust the first plank’s length before completing the row.
Cut with a sharp utility knife and straight edge: score the plank’s surface, then snap it along the score line (or purchase a cutter specifically made for this type of product).
Step 6 Install the next rows and stagger the joints
You can use the previous row’s offcut to start the next row if it is at least 8 inches long and gives you the required joint spacing. Keep end joints staggered by at least 8 inches from row to row.
For the first plank of the second row, insert its long-side tongue into the previous row’s groove at a low angle and lower it into place. Keep a spacer at the wall end.
For the next plank, position the long-side tongue over the previous row’s groove by approximately 1/8 inch, angling the end joint into the preceding plank, and then raising and gently pushing the plank forward until the long joint locks into the previous row. Follow the supplied diagrams alongside the written instructions for this connection sequence.
Take extra care with the first two rows. They need to be straight and square because they establish the alignment for the rest of the floor.
Continue left to right, row by row. Inspect grooves for debris, check that joints close, maintain the perimeter gap, and vary the grain appearance for a natural layout.
Use tapping tools gently
A tapping block is not necessary and misuse can damage the connection system or appearance. Damage caused by misuse is not covered for the affected material.
If a joint is not closing, check alignment and debris before applying force. Never hammer directly on an exposed locking profile. If you need help understanding how your planks connect, ask before continuing.
Step 7 Fit the final row and doorways
Measure and cut the final row while maintaining the minimum 2-inch plank width and 5/16-inch expansion space.
At doorways, slide planks beneath the properly undercut molding so they can move freely.
Follow the manufacturer’s diagrams for tight-area connections, using any pull bar or tapping tools delicately.
Do not force the floor tightly against walls, door frames, or other fixed objects.
Step 8 Install baseboard quarter round and transitions
Once all planks are installed, remove the spacers and fit the finishing trim.
Predrill and attach baseboard or quarter round to the wall. The molding must cover the 5/16-inch perimeter gap. Do not fasten transition moldings to or through the flooring; the floating floor needs to remain free to move.
Step 9 Protect and clean your new floor
Use plywood over the flooring when moving heavy furniture or appliances into position. Add appropriate protectors beneath furniture legs and feet.
After installation, maintain indoor temperatures between 55°F and 90°F and relative humidity between 40% and 70%.
For the initial cleaning, remove loose dirt and debris, then use a well-wrung damp mop with warm, clean water. Remove remaining water and allow the floor to dry. Avoid harsh or ammonia-based cleaners, test new cleaning products in an inconspicuous area, and do not wax the floor.
Use entrance mats or another effective barrier to limit tracked-in dirt and grit. Keep pets’ nails trimmed and use blinds or drapes to reduce prolonged strong sunlight.
Ready to plan your DIY flooring project?
A successful DIY installation starts with choosing your flooring, checking the subfloor, and understanding the installation requirements before you begin.
At Plank’d Discount Flooring in Rocky Mount, Virginia, we can help you compare products, calculate your material order, and choose finishing trim. Bring your room measurements and questions so you can get your project organized before installation day.
